Tuesday, 9/9/97
Lipan Point, Antelope Canyon, & Lake Powell
"Wilderness is a peculiarly western institution .... Rough and open country
matters here. Further, wilderness has a historical dimension....a stark reminder
of the joys and barriers of a region that has been the terminus of one
of the greatest human migrations in history. It also speaks to the
character of our society" ---Charles Wilkinson
This was a big day, a 14 roll kind of day. I was up
at 4:30am, as I had to check out of the hotel, and make about
an hour long drive to my destination, Lipan Point, on the
East Rim Drive. I arrived in time to catch dawn's first
light, at left.
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Lipan Point is a wonderful place
for sunrise, with panoramic views, and excellent terrain. Unlike
many of the points with sheer drop-offs, this one is more gradual,
with varied vegetation. It was probably my favorite spot.
"The Photograph does not call up the past....The effect it produces upon me
is not to restore what has been abolished (by time, by distance) but to
attest that what I see has indeed existed."
---Roland Barthes
This may have had something to do with the fact
I quite literally had the whole place to myself. The view
here is similar to the one at Desert View, without the Watchtower
and its attendant crowds. You can look north towards the canyon's
origins (the first image on this page)
, or look west down the majority of its length (at left).
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It was a perfect ending to my leisurely stay
in the Grand Canyon. But it was time to move on to an
equally unique and visually stunning place, one where my
stay would be much less leisurely, if I could get in
at all. Shooting like a madman
would be a more appropriate description.
"Speed is scarcely the noblest virtue of graphic composition, but it has its curious rewards. There is a sense of getting somewhere fast, which satisfies a native American urge." ---
James Thurber
I had to hustle to meet my appointment to tour
Antelope Canyon. Unfortunately, it appeared that I could have devoted
a full day to the terrain between the Grand Canyon and Page, but I
had only allowed a couple of hours. As often happens on a trip
like this, I drove right past things I would normally kill to
shoot back home, but bypass here to reach a greater good.
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Here you see that "greater good." It
deserves far more attention than I could give it on this
page, as
it is difficult, if not impossible, to convey the true essence of this place. So
I've given Antelope Canyon its
own lengthy page, filled with pictures.
You must go. I promise you won't regret it....
....and I'll bring you back here when
we're done.
"The 'control of nature' is a phrase conceived in arrogance, born of the Neanderthal age of biology and the convenience of man" ---Rachel Carson
Coming over the pass into Page, Arizona, one is
first wow-ed by the scenery around Lake Powell ... and then you wonder, "what's
that brown cloud?" It emanates from the Navajo Generating
Plant, a coal powered station a few miles from a huge electricity
generating dam. It was, for me, an appropriate introduction to
the area. My apologies in advance to those who live there, or
profit from the power generated there, or float their boats there.
You're not going to like this section.
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The natural beauty here is obvious. Perhaps that's
why I found the impact of man so distressing. From a purely
photographic viewpoint, it was frustratingly difficult to
find a location and angle to shoot the environment without
including power lines, houseboats, or huge RV's. For many,
those are valid uses of this area, but not the reason that
I came.
"Man did not weave this web of life. He is merely a strand of it.
Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself" ---Cheif Seattle
All historical commentary indicates that Glen Canyon
once rivaled, if not surpassed, the Grand Canyon in beauty and
granduer. So, we build a huge dam in it, turn canyon into
reservoir, fill it with houseboats to litter the shore with
human waste (no, that's not a Mars bar, son), and name the
result after the man who explored and named the obliterated
canyon. When it's quiet at night, if you listen closely, you
can hear John Wesley Powell spinning in his grave, at a rate
that might generate more power than Glen Canyon Dam does.
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The irony of this place colored my experience. Plus,
I did not have the luxury of time to explore, nor did Mother
Nature grant me very good weather (but I shot it anyway, out of
spite). I know many people both enjoy and profit from this
area. But when the Sierra Club recently made the proposal
that Lake Powell be drained, which was called "ridiculous" by
no less than the sole Native American in Congress, I couldn't
help but think that the proposal was no more ridiculous than
the imprint man has placed on this land. Your mileage may vary.
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